Frequently Asked Questions

Laying instructions for laminate flooring

BEFORE LAYING

The subfloor must be dry (moisture content of cement floors >2CM% and on anhydrite cement floor <0.5CM%) even (unevennesses >3mm/m must be levelled accordingly), stable sound and clean. Please note laminate flooring is not suitable for laying on top of electrical under floor heating and carpeting.

1. The laying of a 0.2mm damp proof PE foil or an underlay (3mm foam & PE foil) for sound and damp proofing is recommended.
   
2. Laminate flooring should always be laid to a floating configuration (eg the boards should not be fixed to the subfloor in any way).
   
3. Boards should be staggered by a minimum of 300mm.
   
4. Allow for expansion gaps of 8 – 10mm between the flooring and any fixed structure (wall, pipes…).
   
5. In corridors and rooms larger than 10 metres, expansion provision should be allowed for and covered with a matching transition profile.

1. Felt covers should be fixed to furniture legs.
   
2. Heavy furniture should be lifted, not dragged.
   
3. Furniture and chairs with castors should be of the ‘soft’ castor type.
   
4. Never wet-clean the flooring, never use abrasive cleaning materials, do not wax or sand the flooring.

For best results, follow the laying instructions below. Also use the tools and accessories recommended by the manufacturer.

• Lay the planks longitudinally in the direction of the daylight, taking into account the layout of the room.
  
• Working from one corner of the room, position the first plank, its groove against the wall, use +/- 8mm distance spacers between the wall and the plank. Count the number of rows to the opposite wall (including the distance spacers). If the last row is less than 5cm wide, reduce the width of the planks used in the first row.
  
• If the wall is not straight, trace its contour on the planks of the first row with a pencil and saw along the line.
  
• Install the planks of the first row without using the adhesive. Cut the last plank to size (minimum length 30cm), leaving a 8mm gap. Use the remaining off-cut to start the second row.
  
• Proceed, without gluing, with the first three rows. Check for straightness with a taut string. Adjust where necessary.
  
• Proceed with jointing and sticking of the first 3 rows with a PVA adhesive. Apply a continuous coating on the tongue of the plank already installed and inside the groove of the plank to join. Apply the adhesive onto all sides of the planks to avoid any penetration of dampness.
  
• For the final touch, use a hammer and a hammering block with a groove adapted to the plank’s tongue. Never strike the grooves or tongues directly. Remove all excess adhesive with a clean cloth. Let the adhesive dry for one hour. If you have floor clamps, use them now. Continue with the rest of the installation.
  
• For the last plank of each row and the planks of the last one, use a heel iron.
  
• If the planks of the last row are too wide, position its first plank (A) exactly on top of the preceding row. Position a third overlapping plank with its groove to the wall without forgetting the distance spacers. Trace the contour of the wall onto plank (A) and saw along the line.
  
• PIPES: Measure the pipes. Mark out their position and dimensions on the plank. Cut out a hole (diameter of the pipe plus 16mm). Saw the plank at a 45o angle to the holes. Position and adjust.